IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

The Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is performing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with a textbook bouquet of citrus oil, crisp green apple, Anjou pear, mandarin oil, crushed chalk and struck flint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's muscular but tight-knit, with racy acids, excellent concentration and a long, mineral finish.

Bright medium yellow. Reticent aromas of peach, apple and spices; this wine finished its malo early and appears to be going through a slightly tired phase today. Dense, sappy and salty but hard to taste, with its savory and spicy qualities currently dominating its fruit. Best today on the dusty, tactile, rising finish, where the minerality of this premier cru comes through clearly.