Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Rose 2008 6x750ml 2008

This deep salmon pink wine is a study in subtlety. It is gently fragrant and takes time to open up. At first, the nose is rather creamy, even lactic, but then, slowly, redcurrant and blood orange appear with an aromatic overtone of potentilla. The palate, with very fine mousse, exquisite texture and balance, then veers into a most Pinot-esque direction that reveals truffle and a dimension of earthiness and undergrowth. It shimmers with white pepper and has a touch of toasted hazelnut on the bright finish.

Although a small part of this Champagne was vinified in wood, it is the rich fruit that shows the wine's quality. Touches of toast indicate the approach of maturity, and the wine is now perfectly poised and ready to drink.