IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

Full medium red. Aromas of black raspberry and smoked meat convey a liqueur-like ripeness. Sweet, savory and fine-grained, with concentrated redcurrant and smoke flavors showing an element of saline complexity that I did not find in the Champeaux. The palate-saturating finish features lovely length and dusty tannins.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbaude has a clean, fresh raspberry preserve and wet clay-scented bouquet that gains intensity with aeration. The palate has fine tannin and a slight stalkiness deriving from 20% whole bunch fruit, fresh and focused, though maybe a little more rustic in style with a touch of bitterness marking the finish at the moment.