Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain 2014

A wine where the Montrachet analogy sings out: the Riesling is rich and unctuous to smell, with bread and cream notes as well as the soft fruits and the hum of stone behind. The palate seems astonishingly dense, analogous to a weighty mineral paste, but alive and dancing not only with vivid fruit acids but also with the speckle of strange stone flavour.

Not only magnificent in its own right, but the perfect wine to share, and perhaps to analyse, whenever debates surface about what ‘minerality’ might be in wine.