Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese Riesling, Selbach-Oster 2009

A luscious effusion of Persian melon, quince, pear, and grapefruit rushes over stones and glistening minerals with a cooling and refreshing personality that utterly belies the presence of significant botrytis. And neither the sheer ripeness of raw material nor overt richness here precludes levity and animation.

Herbal high tones, musk, and brown spices add appeal to a finish of salivary gland-massaging, near jaw-dropping length