Roter Veltliner, Ecker 2020

This may be the best wine I've tasted from this fascinating variety, which is in essence a GruVe cousin, making a fuller-bodied wine that's sometimes more bell-peppery and sometimes muskier—young RotVe tastes like 5-year-old GruVe.

These are 50-year-old vines, and the wine is replete with sweet aromas leading to a palate that's playful, herbal and minty and full of charm; salty, leafy, not as soy-like as they sometimes are, but more scintillating than any I've ever had.