PRAGER GRUNER VELTLINER SMARAGD ACHLEITEN 6 CS

This is powerful grüner, sun-soaked and mineral-drenched, tense with the chill of the gneiss slope it grows on. The flavors lean tropical, toward mango and litchi, with an almost sticky concentration, until grüner’s green side chimes in, notes of celery, lettuce and pepper keeping the wine firmly in the savory realm.

The clarity of the flavors extends their reach, the way that a crystal-clear music note can carry across a vast room. It’s lovely stuff, elegant despite its muscle, and it should age well for another decade, at least.