IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

Intriguing notes of blackcurrant surface at first, displaying both the full and juicy ripeness of dark berry fruit and a lifted leafiness. Hints of tar and slight notes of iron oxide create a haunting picture of a potent wine made from dense, ripe but fresh fruit. With more air, the characteristic red and black cherry fruit shines through. This is complex and rewarding, even luscious in its brooding, mysterious dark reaches to which the fine tannins stretch. Drink 2017–2025.

This comes from two parcels of old vines, one on a cool hillside of schist and quartz, the other in a warm pocket of limestone. Together their grapes make a spicy, dark-fruited blaufrankisch with fresh, breezy acidity and gravelly tannins. It should age well over the next decade.