Forstberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs, Dautel 2020

The greatest pinot noir ever made in the underrated region of Wurttemberg! A whole bouquet of violets on the nose, and behind that a wealth of red beets, gunpowder and wet earth. Terrific concentration on the super-focused, but only medium-bodied palate.

Off-the-scale racy energy at the almost endless finish suggests this sleek masterpiece has decades of life ahead of it. From a high-altitude site that was forgotten until Christian Dautel started making wine from it.