Domaine Tatsis Xinomavro 2011 (6/750ml) 2011

Because this contains no negoska, it can’t claim the Goumenissa appellation, though it’s grown in the region’s limestone-rich soils. Farmed organically and vinified with ambient yeasts in large, old wooden casks, this is smoky and cedary, with a gauzy texture that makes it very easy to drink.

There’s still some redness to the cherry fruit, and a firm grip to the tannins, suggesting that this could age longer, but it’s pretty delicious right now, with a slight earthy funk that would harmonize well with offal or game."