Champagne Millesime Extra Brut, Rene Geoffroy 2004

Offering up aromas of citrus oil, wet stones and white flowers, complemented by subtle hints of candied fruits, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, tangy and chiseled, with a racy spine of acidity and a tightly wound core of fruit.

While this is very youthful for a 2004, a touch of asperity—foregrounded by the low dosage style—betrays a year of sometimes rather marginal ripeness.