Albert Neumeister Roter Traminer Steintal 2018

Neumeister excels with this red-skinned variant of traminer, especially at this warm, south-facing vineyard of 40-year-old vines. It feels positively buoyant in its floral scents, as well as in its flavor, a riot of red and gold fruit. The acidity keeps it balanced, as does the savory spice, the wine lasting with focus and precision. For a washed-rind cheese.

The tell-tale scent of rose petals is tempered by fresh orange zest aromas on the nose of this wine. An unusual member of the Traminer family, it sings with creamy but textured freshness, centered around a glorious streak of zesty lemon. The flavors linger long and intensely on the dry finish.

The heady florality of damask rose is joined by powerful earthy forces to acquire a rich autumnal touch of ripe fruit and fragrance. The palate is wonderfully dry, precise and fresh: There is enough acidity here to brighten every last corner of flavor. This is both ethereal and earthy, elegant but firm, fragrant and fresh—from the first whiff to the last vestige of flavor on the tongue.