Telmo Rodriguez Toro Dehesa Gago 2018

Glac̩ cherry and dark fruit tea, with touches of smoky brush, pepperminty and whole-of-orchard balsalm and florals. There's husky spice, with the powerful silt-clay soils of Toro are in clear evidence underneath.

All lovely and exuberant, but the real point with this wine is just how delicate and pared back it is compared to the Toro norm. Unwooded (aged in concrete and old wood vats) it's not fruity, not raw, not heavy, just a beautifully moderated fruit riot organised on glorious, gravelly, grip-and-release fruit tannins. Simple and special, with spread and reach, never sweet, heavy nor lumpy.