Picpoul 'Central Coast', Bonny Doon Vineyard 2022

The redoubtable Beeswax Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco of Monterey County has the very singular habit of producing white grapes all of which coincidentally enough express the unique scent of..well, beeswax. Along with beeswax, one apprehends the rather discreet scent of white flowers and perhaps pineapple.

But while the scent of Picpoul is subtle, one is forcefully struck by the wine's bracing acidity and its unique savoriness (who's you-mami?); there is a discernible quality of brininess that makes this wine an absolutely perfect match for all manner of nutriment of the crustacean and molluscan variety.