Laurent Ponsot Gevrey-Chambertin 2017

The colour can range from robish to quite light but don’t be fooled. The nose is tease; its ethereal, dried roses, spring deciduous leaf, tea leaves and often a sweet earthiness. In the mouth it is often very supple and silken. The flavours are from a motley palette including cherries of most any hue, sometimes truffle, gaminess and a wonderful comforting earthiness.

Roasted birds are a preternatural match but Pinot Noir goes with any number of dishes ranging from those incorporating wild game and foraged mushrooms to veal stews or grilled fleshy fish. For a classic cheese pairing hunt down some Epoisse.