IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

Initial aromas of sweet wood, sticky toffee pudding and baked apples are followed quickly by ripe sultanas and honey. Fragrant orange oil and cinnamon gum come to the fore next with a hint of peppermint lingering in the background. A drop of water brings out honeysuckle, gooseberry and chocolate-covered papaya. Great complexity.

Spicy entry with cinnamon and white pepper. Rich Christmas cake and walnuts are followed by bitter orange chocolate, that really rich 70% cocoa stuff. Look for vanilla ice-cream and a zing of lime at the back. A palate and a half. The finish is intense and fizzy with flavours of spicy dried fruit, cocoa, citrus and nuts. Really long and very elegant.